|Whole Rye Berries: note the sage green color common in rye|
So far I covered in some detail the concept of malt, malting grains, what that means, how to make it and the differences between diastatic and non-diastatic malt. Though it is time consuming in that it spans three days to create, there is really almost nothing being done by oneself during that time. Hours to soak the grain, hours to sprout the grain and hours to dry the sprouted grains. Wait, wait and wait some more. The plus side is that once the grain has sprouted and dried, and you have an idea of whether to use it as diastatic or non-diastatic, the resulting grain can be kept frozen indefinitely, until needed.
Going into the making of the bread, while malted rye is one of the standards in the making of Borodinski, so is molasses. I am not terribly partial to molasses and did not use any in my recipe, though I might try using it in my next batch of this bread. Honey is sometimes substituted. Another standard in making this bread is making a "mash"; mixing boiling water into some of the rye flour and allowing it to set and cool, either just until cooled, or even overnight. In my case, I chose to set it overnight, alongside the starter batter.
|very active "reactivated" starter|
Sourdough starters can be made using dry yeast and allowing the mixture to ferment. If you do not (yet) own The Bread Baker's Apprentice, the King Arthur Flour site has a step-by-step process for making a starter from wild yeasts >>> here. The Red Star Yeast site has a recipe for a starter that begins with (preferably their brand) dry yeast >>> here. It will take at least 5 days to get an active starter going by whichever method, and it is best if it is refreshed at least once prior to using it to make the current bread starter (as for the starter for Borodinski, or any other sourdough bread).
Preparation for Russian Black Rye BreadDays prior, I made the malted rye, in the manner outlined in my blog yesterday. It was made and then dried over the course of 3 days. On day 3, I opted to make the starter and the "mash" side by side and let them set overnight before making the bread. On Day 4, early in the morning, I combined the starter and mash with more dark rye flour, some coarse whole wheat flour and water for the "pre-ferment" or "sponge", until doubled. Once doubled, the remaining flour and other ingredients were added to make the final dough. This dough was allowed to rise until doubled, then turned into a greased loaf pan and smoothed over. This was allowed to rise again and then baked.
|Borodinsky Style Bread|
BakingThis is always the tricky subject for me; baking. So many bread makers bake at extremely high temperatures, and for amounts of time that I am so totally not comfortable with. I like a nice crust on my bread. That said, I do not like a blackened crust. More often than not, I just use my instant read Thermapen and, depending on the kind of bread being baked, take it out once it has reached 180 to 205 degrees. This temperature is often reached in half the time allotted in my revered Bread Baker's Apprentice cookbook!
|Fresh from the oven, Borodinsky Style Rye Bread|
All in all, without using any precise formula, but only my instincts based on years of bread making, this is my version, to date, of a Borodinsky STYLE bread. I make no claim to authenticity, though I followed most of the standards and strictures.
Borodinsky Style Rye Breadmakes one small loaf
takes 2 days, not including the previously active starter or malting process
2 tablespoons (32 grams) pre-activated starter (see above)
3 tablespoons (47 grams) water
1/2 scant cup (47 grams) whole or dark rye flour
1 cup (96 grams) dark rye flour
3 tablespoons red malt flour (see above, or yesterday's blog)
1 tablespoon (5 grams) whole coriander seed, crushed (amount optional)
1 1/2 cups boiling water
|Rye Starter all bubbly, morning after|
Next, for the mash: In another bowl, stir together the dark rye flour, the red malt powder and the crushed coriander. Pour in the boiling water and stir well to combine. Cover with a lid or plastic wrap and set in the same warm place overnight.
SPONGE or PRE-FERMENT:
All the (now bubbling) Rye Starter
All the Mash
1/2 cup (125 grams) water
1 cup (96 grams) dark rye flour
Early the morning after setting the starter and mash to ferment, in a large glass or plastic bowl, combine the now-active rye starter with the mash and stir well. Add in the water and the dark rye flour and stir together well with a wooden or plastic/silicone spoon or spatula. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap of a lid and set back in the warm place to ferment. This could take as little as 3 hours or up to five, depending on ambient temperatures. Once well activated, and doubled in bulk, turn the mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer.
FOR FINAL DOUGH:
1 1/2 cups (150 grams) dark rye flour
3/4 cup (105 grams) bread flour
1/4 teaspoon (1 gram) instant yeast, for added insurance ;-)
1 teaspoon (6 grams) salt
2 tablespoons (45 grams) honey
2 teaspoons (4 grams) whole coriander seed, crushed, optional
|finished dough | dough in bucket to rise | dough doubled in size | dough in pan to rise|
Grease a smaller loaf pan (4 1/2 x 8-inches or so). It is best not to disturb the dough more than necessary. I scraped the dough directly into the pan, then with wet hands, smoothed the top. Spray the top lightly with cooking spray, cover with plastic wrap and again set it to rise. When the dough rises above the top of the pan, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Once heated, bake the bread for 50 to 60 minutes. Raise the temperature to 400 degrees and bake 10 minutes more. Internal temperature should be somewhere between 195 and 205 degrees F. Turn the loaf out to cool on a rack. Once cooled, it should be wrapped in foil and then a towel and left for 24 hours before cutting.
My passion is to teach people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and help pass along my love and joy of food, both simple and exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, trying new things weekly. I would love to hear from you, to help me continue my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me at A Harmony of Flavors Website and Marketplace, Tumblr, Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest.