GRAINS OF PARADISE
or Melegueta Pepper, (Aframomum melegueta) |
| Grains of Paradise |
Grains of Paradise are a species in the ginger family and related to cardamom (not at all related to pepper). Sometimes known as Guinea Pepper or Melegueta Pepper, this spice has been out of vogue for a long time. In the 14th and 15th centuries, production of the spice was so important that the Gulf of Guinea coast became known as the Melegueta Coast. The ease of access to Europe made this spice a popular substitute for pepper from far away Asia.
Grains of Paradise are actually small reddish brown pyramidal shaped seeds that are found in 2 – 3 inch long pods, whereas pepper comes from the berries of the pepper plant. The seeds have long been used as a stand in for pepper and are known to be less irritating for the digestion. In taste, these Grains have an inviting heat, though gentler than the harsher heat of pepper. There is an herbaceous and citrusy character with warm spicy undertones of cinnamon, cloves or cardamom, though the components that make up the flavor of cardamom are present only in traces. The pleasant heat lingers for a while on the finish.
Largely unknown these days in cooking outside of the West African Coast, some popular chefs have once again begun making Grains of Paradise a sought after spice. It is sometimes used in the spices used in flavoring Scandinavian Aquavit, as well as some popular beer. The intriguing flavors lend themselves to flavoring foods both sweet and savory. They are a great addition to a gingerbread or spice cake, with their gentle warmth. Grains of Paradise work well with other herbs such as rosemary and thyme, or lemon thyme to pick up the citrusy note. It can be used in most any place pepper is called for, though neither the flavor nor the heat is not that of pepper. They are generally an addition to the Moroccan Spice mixture called Ras el Hanout, loosely meaning "Best of the Shop"; great used as a spice rub for pork, beef, lamb or chicken before grilling, and adding into Moroccan tagines or other long braised stews.
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GALANGAL, GALANGA
(Alpinia officinarum) |
| Dried Galangal Slices |
There is a greater galangal and a lesser galangal, and looks very much like ginger root. It is related to ginger, and is also a rhizome, or underground stem, but there the similarity ends. It is sharper and hotter and more like mustard than ginger. It is one thing that gives Thai cooking some of its heat.
Used in most of the Asian cultures, Galangal grows in East and Southeast Asia, and also in the East Himalayas and South India. As there are various types of galangal, some countries use one variety and other countries another. China uses a different type of galangal than Thailand, for example. The Polish use galangal to flavor vodka and the Russians still use it to flavor vinegar and some liqueurs. The oil produced from galangal is common in India. A common Southeast Asian use for galangal is making a paste with the root along with shallots, garlic and chiles. This paste is used to flavor seafood or meat curries.
Fresh Galangal root is of harder fiber than ginger and will require a sharp knife to cut. The inside is also much more creamy white than ginger. If using fresh galangal, find a young root, as they toughen with age. Pounding the root helps to release more of its flavors. Its strong flavors blend well with the use of coconut milk, such as in coconut based soups. If using fresh, uncooked root in a hot and sour salad for example, slice the root extremely thinly as it is intensely aromatic and pungent.
As fresh galangal is not available in many places, the alternative is the dried or powdered variety. Dried galangal (more accessible in the US) has a muskier and rootier flavor than the sharp bite of the fresh root. Once ground, it loses flavor easily, as with most ground spices. It is used in some Indian dishes, and sometimes in the spice mixture called Ras el Hanout from East Africa. If you find galangal, try it in Thai Red Curry Paste.
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MAHLAB
Mahleb, Mahalabi, Mahlepi, Mahiepi (Prunus mahaleb)Outside of Turkey, the Middle East and Greece where it grows wild, Mahlab is little known. This spice is the inner kernel of the pit of the St. Lucie Cherry, Prunus mahaleb. The fruits are small, only up to about ⅜-inch in diameter, turning black when ripe.
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| Mahlab |
The tiny inner kernel of Mahlab is an oval, 3/16 inch long, buff or tan colored with wrinkled skin and a creamy colored interior. The scent is a pleasant mix of sour cherries, bitter almonds and a hint of rose, lending most greatly to baked goods such as breads, cakes and cookies. Biting into a kernel raw will leave a bitter note, but once baked the flavors transform to fruity and rich, but subtle. A little can go a long way. Think of nutmeg when using Mahlab. A spare hand will yield excellent flavors, but it can make all the difference between a plain dessert and something uniquely alluring.
When using Mahlab, it should be ground just before use, as the flavors dissipate quickly once ground. It is easy to grind with a mortar and pestle or in a spice grinder. If grinding by hand, use some of the sugar and or salt called for in the recipe, as the grains help with the grinding action on the seed kernels and yields a nice powder. To use, about ½ to 1 teaspoon per 2 cups of flour in a recipe is a good rule of thumb. Mahlab is a good addition to breads, sweet pastries, cookies and biscuits. It would also be a great way to transform simple pudding or rice pudding. The flavors lend themselves to milk based foods and cheese.
As the spice is native to the Middle East, Turkey and Greece, most recipes that use mahlab are ones from these cultures. Sweet, rich egg doughs call for mahlab. Many recipes for Ma’moul on the internet do not call for mahlab, mainly because it is less known here in the States, but if you can find it, mahlab makes these authentic.
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CARDAMOM (Green)
(Elettaria cardamomum) |
| Green Cardamom |
There are different varieties of cardamom, although the smaller green cardamom, Elettaria cardamomum, is the one being discussed here. There are other cardamom types, such as black cardamom which, while both are members of the ginger family, bear scant resemblance in flavor. Green cardamom is used for both sweet and savory cooking and baking, while black cardamom with its unique smoky quality, is used only for savory dishes and has developed a following all its own.
Native to India, green cardamom pods come from a perennial bush of the ginger family, growing wild in rain forests of southern India and Sri Lanka, though Guatemala is now the largest exporter of cardamom. The very best dried cardamom pods are pale greenish in color. Each paper-like pod holds approximately 12 to 20 dark brown or black highly aromatic seeds. It is best to buy either whole pods or whole seeds that have been removed from the pod. Once ground, it loses flavor too easily. Also, the pods themselves have little flavor and commercially, it is too easy to grind the whole pod together, thus lowering the price and the quality of the ground spice. Grinding the seeds is simple in a mortar and pestle or a small spice grinder, and one is assured of the quality of the product.
Many dishes in India call for whole, unbroken or only slightly crushed pods to be used. Anyone who has eaten Indian cuisine, or cooked Indian dishes, knows well how often cardamom is an ingredient. It is almost always used in a Garam Masala mixture, often seen as an ingredient in Northern Indian dishes such as rice Biryani.
In addition to its use in savory dishes, green cardamom is used extensively in breads and sweets. Cardamom has a lovely flavor and aroma, quite penetrating and strongly aromatic. While it is one of the most expensive spices, very little is needed to impart flavor. An Indian dessert called Gulab Jamun uses the seeds ground in either the little balls of dough before frying, or in their syrup, or both. In northern European countries it is used in Stollen breads as well as many other cakes, pastries and cookies.
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STAR ANISE
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| Star Anise |
Star anise has been little used outside of its native Southern China and Vietnam. It has spread to wherever these cultures have gone, being taken along both to use and where possible, to grow. The shape of star anise is that of an irregular eight and sometimes up to twelve pointed star. In Chinese, the name means eight points. It is a very pretty and decorative spice, often used in crafts or floated in tea. The stars are the fruits and each point of the star is a pod holding one very shiny oval seed. The color of the pods is a deep rusty brown, and the shiny seeds a lighter caramel color. The brittle seeds are less aromatic than the fruit.
Star anise is the fruit of a small evergreen tree, Illicium verum. The fruits are picked while still unripe and then sun dried. Its flavor is anise like, though much more potent and with a heavier licorice flavor component than common anise seed, and with a distinctly sweet note. If using as a substitution for anise seed in a recipe, it is best to cut down the amount by a half to two thirds.
Star anise is a key ingredient in Chinese Five Spice Powder, below:
Five Spice Powder
1 tablespoons Szechuan peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon whole cloves
8 inches of stick cinnamon or cassia
2 tablespoons fennel seed
10 whole star anise
Place all ingredients into a dry skillet over medium high heat and dry roast until fragrant. This releases the oils, making a more aromatic mixture. Put spices together into a small blender used only for spices and grind into a powder. Store in a cool place, in an air tight container.
Some suggestions for using Five Spice Powder are as a spice rub for fatty meats such as steaks, skirt steak, pork or duck. It can be mixed into a marinade. The flavors can be very strong, so start with a little and see how it goes with your taste. Add it to a stir fry, or to rice or anywhere you would like a real punch of flavor. It may be mixed with salt as a seasoning to be added at table. It can also be used in a spiced Chai. I have made a wonderful recipe for Masala Chai Tea, with a few other spices.
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POPPY SEED
(Papaver somniferum)Everyone knows that poppy seeds come from the opium poppy, Papaver
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| Black Poppy Seeds |
The opium poppy is native to the Middle East and has been known and used for nearly 5,000 years. There are two main types of poppy seeds. Black poppy seeds, actually a slate blue in color, are most known as European, because they are the kind used most in western breads and pastries. White poppy seeds are known generally as Indian, Middle Eastern or Asian, as they are more often used in these cuisines. Both blue and white poppy seeds come from the same plant, though the white seeds come from a white flowering cultivar.
In the Western parts of the world, black/blue poppy seeds are used mainly in pastries and confections, although they are also added to noodles or pasta and vegetable dishes. They are best known sprinkled on breads or buns, in poppy seed cakes, and Danish pastries. Lemon poppy seed cakes and muffins are extremely popular and delicious. Poppy seeds and honey are a great combination. Hamantash, well-known Jewish pastries, are traditional during Purim. I had the great pleasure of tasting these cookie-like treats. White poppy seeds are most known in Indian and Asian cuisines, used ground as a thickener for curries and sauces. They are also used in some curry powder mixtures.
As my ethnic background is east central European, with my grandparents from Slovakia and what is now Serbia, I grew up enjoying poppy seed pastries. Most traditionally at Christmas time, my Slovakian grandmother made Slovak Rolls, a rich yeast dough rolled with a thick, sweet poppy seed filling. I have many fond memories of unrolling the pastry and eating small strips at a time, until reaching the center, where the filling was thickest. My Serbian grandmother made poppy seed strudel at any time of the year, but at Christmas she also made Bobalky. I have seen Bobalky described in many ways, but hers was made with small bread balls, soaked in water, with ground poppy seeds and honey added in. These two variations of poppy seed desserts have meant Christmas to me since my earliest years.
My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Facebook, and Pinterest.
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