Good Golly it's Gumbo

Long before ever visiting Louisiana, and later actually living there over the Y2K times, I had heard of Gumbo, as well as Etoufee, Jambalaya and a lot of other dishes, not all of which I really associated with Louisiana. Red beans and rice I'd had in Guatemala as a very young newlywed expat. maybe these were not the Louisiana-spiced version, but the concept was there. Boudin rouge or boudin noir are a sausage made with blood as part or most of its ingredients, but I had eaten those in Guatemala as well, under the name Moronga or Morcilla. Not a banana fan at any time, Bananas Foster never held any interest whatsoever. And long, long before ever learning that bread pudding was pretty much Louisiana's state dessert (according to me, anyway, as it was found in every single restaurant), I had been making and loving bread pudding.

When it came to hearing about Gumbo, I heard about okra as an ingredient, and I am absolutely not an okra fan. Thus, Gumbo held no interest. I like tomatoes, tomato sauces, spaghetti sauces, but there are times I just cannot abide them. At least my stomach seems to completely rebel at times, and then sometimes not. Etoufee, mainly tomato-ey red in color, was not high on a list of things I wanted to try. 

Chicken and Andouille Gumbo

And then, we moved to Louisiana. Just north of Lake Ponchartrain, there were an amazing assortment of the best eating establishments all grouped so closely near to one another that you could barely toss a stone without hitting one, and we frequented them, almost all, in a constant rotation. My husband will not touch seafood, and not even fish. This is a mental allergy mind you, not a physical one. But as Louisiana cuisine is really all about fish and seafood, crawfish being absolutely huge there, there were many restaurants that had no meat on the menu, and some with a whole lot of truly stellar gourmet seafood dishes available, and with one lone hamburger plate on the menu, generally served with coleslaw (which my husband will not eat) and fries. They truly are not catering to the meat lover diet.

Exploring Gumbo Flavors

As we began exploring food in our new home area after we moved there, I was excited to taste this Gumbo I had heard and read about. I was willing to overlook okra, if the dish was good enough. And I had a couple samplings that were passable, for sure. But it was down in New Orleans proper, that I first had a small bowl of File Gumbo. Being a complete neophyte in the Gumbo world, I had asked the waitress what was the difference. she explained that Okra Gumbo used the okra as a slight thickening agent, whereas File Gumbo used File powder as it's slight thickening agent. Obviously okra has its own flavors as well, as does file powder, but I wasn't aware of that, then. 

➤File powder is nothing more than the powdered leaf of sassafras. It is generally

File Powder

available in the spice aisle. This flavoring agent should never be added to the pot, but only stirred in at table. If cooked, it can become stringy.

On tasting the little bowl of File Gumbo, I was suddenly aware that this was amazingly good! Oh my, was it good! And then I went on a search. In each and every restaurant, I tried at least a small bowl or cup of Gumbo, just to see the range of flavors, and just how good, good can be. 

While living there, I never even attempted to make Gumbo. More often than not, the Gumbo in restaurants contained crawfish or shrimp. At the time I still wasn't aware of why I was swelling so much all the time, so I blithely ate my way through crawfish, shrimp, crab, blue crab, lobster and a lot of other shellfish. Now, sadly, I have long been aware of my intolerance for those most wonderful foods. Sigh.

Making Roux

Moving away from Louisiana, as all good things must end one day, I longed for Gumbo. As I set about learning what made a good Gumbo, I learned about roux. While I had made roux plenty of times, in preparation for a gravy, those were always a very blond roux, just cooked enough for the raw flour taste to be gone, but not for color. In Louisiana, there is ROUX. Pronounced, "ROO." And this is one not to be messed with. Every young girl must learn the way to make a proper roux, or you will not ever attain a proper gumbo. And this roux must be cooked until "mahogany colored." This requires constant attention to the pot, or the roux will burn. This disaster cannot be repaired, and the only solution is to begin again. This process of cooking oil and flour to a mahogany color can take 15 minutes or it can take an hour, completely dependent on the skill and ease of the one making it. If unskilled, as I was the first time, it took an hour over medium or medium low heat. Over a higher heat, and a lot of quick stirring, it can be accomplished in much less time, but without this very dark roux as a base, the gumbo will not be right. 

Holy Trinity added to Roux

The next important thing to know is that many, if not most, dishes in Louisiana are based on the flavors of the 'holy trinity, a phrase coined by chef Paul Prudhomme. This trinity is a combination, in equal parts, of chopped onion, green pepper and celery. These should be prepped and ready, as they are the first addition to the Gumbo pot, once the roux is ready. 

Andouille sausage, pronounced ahn-DOO-ee, in Louisiana, is generally very highly spiced, with a strong chili kick. For the unwary, this can be a shock. The Andouille found in other areas of the country is but a poor relative, in comparison. I've used Aidell's brand, as I can tolerate the salt levels, though it is not spicy hot. 

Chicken and Andouille Gumbo

Serves 8 to 10

Chicken and Andouille Gumbo

ROUX:

½ cup shortening or oil
½ cup all-purpose flour

----------
2 tablespoons cooking oil

2 medium onions, chopped
2 green peppers, chopped
6 stalks celery, chopped
3 cloves garlic
1 whole chicken, cut up
2 - 4 Andouille sausages, sliced
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
¾ teaspoon dried oregano flakes
¾ teaspoons dried basil leaves
2 bay leaves
½ teaspoon ancho powder or cayenne
6 cups water or stock
Salt & pepper, to taste

File Powder, for serving

MAKE ROUX: In a heavy soup pot or Dutch oven, melt the shortening or oil over medium heat. Add in the flour and stir continually with a wire whisk until the mixture becomes a deep mahogany brown. This can take from 10 minutes to half hour, depending on your heat setting. Do not scorch the roux or you will need to begin again. Set aside, off the heat.

ASSEMBLE GUMBO: In a large skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons of oil and sauté the onions, green pepper, celery and garlic until softened, about 10 minutes. Add to the pot with the roux. Dry the chicken pieces and brown them on all sides in the skillet, then remove them to the pot along with the sliced Andouille, all the spices, chili powder and water or stock. Add in about 1 teaspoon of salt, to start, and some freshly grated black pepper. Stir well, then cover and cook on very low heat for an hour, or until the chicken is very tender. Once the gumbo has cooked, check for seasoning and adjust as needed. Leave chicken on the bone, or remove the skin and bones, if preferred, returning the chicken meat to the pot. Serve with a scoop of rice. Serve File Powder on the side. Use 1 to 3 teaspoons per serving, to taste.

NOTES: If using shrimp or crawfish, add these in to the pot only about 5 to 7 minutes before ready to serve, to just cook through. 

My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Facebook, and Pinterest.

Progress on Foods for the Wine Tasting Event

I wrote the other day about the Wine Tasting event coming up this Saturday evening. I have been busily prepping the recipes I created to pair with the 6 wines I will be showcasing. So far, I made the squash and leek mixture for what will (hopefully today) be the little Squash Apple Leek Phyllo Triangles, to be accompanied by the Kendall Jackson Chardonnay Grand Reserve.

First Bite

While I was typing up the recipe, thinking about how good this mixture was, it occurred to me it could also be placed into a 13 x 9 casserole, topped with a little more Asiago mixed with bread crumbs and made into a Squash Apple Leek Gratin. And to take that yet another step further, how about making a galette with the filling? A galette is nothing more than a rustic pie. Using a pie pastry, just roll it out, place on a baking sheet, pile a filling in the middle, leaving about a 3-inch edge. Flip the edges up over, folding as necessary to just hold the filling in place and bake. Easy.

The filling was just so delicious, I decided to make a half batch more with the rest of the squash and apples. I didn't have any more leeks, so I just substituted a thinly sliced onion. I already had pie pastry in the freezer. So there I had a most delicious galette for dinner that night, and probably tonight as well.

Squash, Apple and Leek Gratin with Asiago

Making the galette

Makes one 9 x 13 casserole, about 8 - 10 servings, OR 

4 – 6 leeks, white and light green parts only
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup dry sherry or other dry white wine
1½ pounds butternut squash, peeled
4 (6 to 7 ounce) apples (I used Pink Lady)
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
A few grinds of black pepper
1 rounded cup grated Asiago cheese, about 4 ounces, divided
½ cup bread crumbs
½ cup heavy cream
1 egg, lightly beaten 

Cut ends off leeks, leaving only the white and lightest sections (from 4 to 6 inches) and slice in half lengthwise. Fan the layers under running water to clean out any mud or grit. Laying flat side down, cut them again lengthwise, then slice across into thin strips, making about 4 cups. Cut off the neck section of the squash, which should make about 1½ pounds. Peel and cut in half lengthwise. Laying flat side down, cut each section into three more lengthwise sections. Slice each of these across into thin pieces about 1 x 1½ inches, making approximately 4 ½ cups. Peel and core the apples and cut into 8 wedges apiece. Slice across the wedges into thin slices, making about 6 cups, total.

In a large skillet over medium to medium-high heat, melt the butter. Add in the leeks and sauté for about 5 minutes to soften, stirring occasionally. Add the Sherry and cook to evaporate, stirring occasionally, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the squash and toss to combine; cook for another 5 minutes before adding apples. Add in salt and nutmeg and a few grinds of black pepper. Cover and cook for about 8 to 10 minutes or until the squash and apple are just tender. Take off the heat and allow to cool slightly for about 20 minutes. Preheat oven to 375. Mix together the egg yolks and cream. Pour this over the mixture in the pan along with half the Asiago cheese and combine gently.

Grease a 9 x 13 pan and pour the mixture in. Combine the second half of Asiago with the bread crumbs and strew over top of the casserole. Bake for about 25 - 30 minutes, or until the cheese and crumbs on top begin to brown and the casserole is bubbling at the edges.  

NOTES: Serve this with a nice buttery Chardonnay. This recipe is easily cut in half; use an 8 x 8-inch casserole.

Squash Apple Leek Galette with Asiago Cheese

TO MAKE SQUASH, APPLE and LEEK GALETTE with ASIAGO: Make half the recipe amount of filling, omitting the bread crumbs. Reserve a bit of the cheese to sprinkle over top of filling later. Prepare a 10-inch pie pastry single crust. Roll it out into about a 15-inch circle. Set the pastry on a baking sheet or a pizza pan. Into the center, pile the filling mixture into the center and spread to about 11 - 12 inches. Strew remaining cheese over top. Flip the edges of the pastry up over the edges of the filling, folding and pleating as necessary. Make an egg wash from one egg yolk with about 2 tablespoons of water. Brush the egg wash over the pastry edges, being careful not to let it run down underneath the pastry or it will adhere to the pan. Bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for about 30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and the filling is bubbling. Serves 6 - 8. This can be a main course for brunch, lunch or supper with a nice green salad alongside.
 

I also made the Gorgonzola Walnut Spread for the Flank Steak, which will be accompanied by Conn Creek "Herrick" Cabernet. Yesterday I started the day by soaking dried figs, chopped small and put to soak in some dry Sherry to use in some mini tarts, while I went outside to shovel the freakishly heavy snowfall we got overnight. These little mini tarts will accompany a Kenwood Pinot Noir. When I came back in, the figs had plumped nicely, and I started working with the mushrooms and shallots, sauteing them on high heat to brown and evaporate all the moisture from the mushrooms. I added in some finely chopped fresh rosemary, salt and pepper and combined with the drained fig pieces. So far that mixture also tastes really fine. I will be adding in a little log of Chevre goat cheese and then placing the mixture into mini tart pans lined with pie pastry, and then baked. I cannot wait to try those. Even without the cheese, the mixture is delightful.

I also made andouille sausages wrapped in puff pastry and sliced into little coin shapes and baked. The andouille is of local (meaning VERY upper midwest) origin. It is nicely spiced, but not hot-spicy at all. These little andouille coins will accompany the J. Lohr Syrah. Last evening, with an abundance of hamburger in  my freezer leftover from a side of beef from a year back, I got out a package of the hamburger. Since 2 andouille sausages were left from making the little appetizers, I decided to make Hamburger Andouille Gumbo, shown here. Not authentic with hamburger, but the rest of the flavors were, and it was so delicious for dinner last evening.

Today will be another terribly busy day. I have to marinate chicken and broil it, broil some asparagus and chop it, make a cilantro sauce for the chicken, make a marinade for the flank steak, wrap the Squash Apple Leek mixture into the Phyllo, and probably a few other things I am forgetting at the moment. Thank heaven for sticky notes, because right now there are so many of them stuck all over my pages of recipe ideas it looks like a flock of birds in the wind.


My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Facebook, and Pinterest.