Revisiting Some Great Foods

Ever since moving to the southwest in late June, I have mostly been occupied with unpacking and finding "homes" for things. I have only really experimented with one new recipe, in these past months. That doesn't mean I haven't cooked, and I have so many great recipes (if I do say so, myself) that I am thoroughly enjoying going back over some of them.

Hamburger Andouille Gumbo

I am planning to let my website lapse this Fall, due to circumstances that are highly frustrating and too numerous to go into, and so any recipes that are in the website but not here in my blog, I will be working to get into the blog soon. Not to the entire detriment of any new recipes I come up with, but just to have old favorites included. Of late, I have been using a lot of hamburger, first in deference to my husband's poor teeth, but also as it is less expensive than some meats, as moving is an expensive undertaking. One of the recipes I have had in my website but not in this blog, is Hamburger Andouille Gumbo. Since I made it originally many years back, I have made it a few other times, and it is always amazingly good, despite not being completely authentic, with hamburger. All the other flavors are totally authentic though, and the flavor is terrific. 

If you are unfamiliar with Andouille sausage, a very Louisiana type sausage (though originating in France), it is a quite highly spiced style. If it is unavailable where you live, substitute with a smoked, spiced (preferably pork) sausage of your own taste.

Hamburger Andouille Gumbo

Hamburger Andouille Gumbo

Makes 8 servings

½ cup shortening or oil
½ cup flour
2 tablespoons oil for cooking vegetables
2 onions, chopped
2 green bell peppers, chopped
6 stalks celery, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound hamburger
2 – 4 andouille sausages (or other spicy sausage)
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
¾ teaspoon dried oregano flakes
¾ teaspoon dried basil
2 bay leaves
½ teaspoon ancho chili powder, or cayenne if heat is tolerated
6 cups stock or water
1 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper, to taste
Filé powder for serving

Make the Roux: Heat a heavy soup pot and melt the shortening or oil. Add in the flour and over relatively high heat, stir briskly with a whisk for about 10 minutes, until the roux has turned a very deep, dark mahogany chocolate color. Remove from heat and whisk a few times, in case the residual heat of the pot continues cooking. If the roux scorches, there is no salvaging; it must be made again.

In a large skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons oil and sauté the onion, bell pepper, celery and garlic until soft, about 10 minutes. Add this to the pot with the roux. In the same pan, brown the hamburger very well. Add to the roux, along with the andouille (pronounced "on-DOO-eee") sausages and the thyme, oregano, basil, bay leaves, ancho powder and stock. Add salt and pepper, and check for seasoning. Bring this mixture to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for at least an hour to meld flavors. Serve the gumbo over white rice and pass the file powder.

NOTES: Filé powder, pronounced "FEE-lay", is powdered sassafras. It is generally found among the spice jars in the supermarket, and adds a bit of  flavor along with the ability to add just a little thickening. It should not be added to a gumbo while cooking, but only in the bowl when ready to eat. If added in to the cooking pot, it may become stringy. Use from one teaspoon to one tablespoon, as per taste, to a bowl of gumbo.

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Another of the recipes I want to include here in my blog is something I originally created for the very first "Winefest Renaissance" back in 2013, held to raise funds for a new building for the (then - pre-move) local Aberdeen Boys and Girls Club. This building has been long since built and is allowing so many more children a safe place to spend their time. The recipe was for Squash, Apple, Leek and Asiago Triangles. While these require a bit of quick work when wrapping with Phyllo (Fillo, Filo) Pastry, once you get the hang of it, it is quite simple. 

These can be made ahead: roll the filling in the pastry and brush with butter, then set onto parchment lined baking sheets to freeze. Once frozen, carefully set them into containers to keep for up to three weeks. Remove from freezer and set onto baking sheets and bake just before serving. OR, the filling can be made up to a few days in advance and then rolled into the pastry just prior to baking.

Rolling little triangle packets of phyllo

The rolling process is as for rolling a flag, into a neat triangle. How large or small the triangles will be determined by how wide the lengths of phyllo dough are cut. Two inch widths are great, making a small, easy to pick up and eat little bundle, for a walking-around type cocktail party. If made larger, then they would be perfect to serve as a first course to a larger meal. Either way, these were created specifically to pair with a buttery Chardonnay wine, and made an amazing pairing.

Phyllo dough must be handled with great care, since it is delicate and dry to the touch. Carefully unroll as many sheets as needed and store the remainder immediately. Place sheets not immediately in use between damp towels to prevent drying. If weather is hot and dry, sprinkle a little more water on the towels periodically. The folding process requires starting with two layers of phyllo pastry, then brushing with melted butter. Cut the pastry into two-inch wide strips down the length of the pastry. Placing a small amount (from 1 tablespoon for these tiny pastries to 2 tablespoons or so for larger ones cut three or more inches wide) on one corner of the pastry nearest you (figure a), take the lower right corner and fold it across to the left, making what was the edge nearest you, now touch the left side (figure b). Now take the point nearest you and bring it up vertically (figure c), then flip the bundle to the right (figure d), each time lining up edges neatly into triangles. Continue, repeating this pattern (flip up left, flip up, flip right) until you reach the end of the strip of phyllo. Brush the outside of the little packet with melted butter, then set on a parchment lined baking sheet. Begin again with the next strip. The filling mixture should allow using the entire box of phyllo. 

Squash Apple Leek and Asiago Triangles

Squash, Apple, Leek & Asiago Triangles

Squash Apple Leek and Asiago Triangles

Makes about 50 triangles

FILLING:
2 - 3 leeks, white and light green parts only
1 - 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons dry sherry or other dry white wine
¾ pounds butternut squash, peeled
2 (6 to 7 ounce) apples (I used Pink Lady)
1 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
A few grinds of black pepper
---
1 cup grated Asiago cheese, about 3 ounces
---
1 box Phyllo sheets
1 stick butter, melted

FILLING: Cut ends off leeks, leaving only the white and lightest sections (about 4 to 6 inches) and slice in half lengthwise. Fan the layers under running water to clean out any mud or grit. Laying flat side down, cut them again lengthwise, then slice across into thin strips, making about 2 cups. Cut off about a 4-inch neck section of the squash, about ¾ pound. Peel and cut in half lengthwise. Laying flat side down, cut each section into three more lengthwise sections. Slice each of these across into thin pieces about 1 x 1½ inches, making approximately 2+ cups. Peel and core the apples and cut into 8 wedges apiece. Slice across the wedges into thin slices, making about 3 cups, total.

In a large skillet over medium to medium-high heat, melt the butter. Add in the leeks and sauté for about 5 minutes to soften, stirring occasionally. Add the Sherry and cook to evaporate, stirring occasionally, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the squash and toss to combine; cook for another 5 minutes before adding apples. Add in salt and nutmeg and a few grinds of black pepper. Reduce heat, cover and cook for about 10 - 12 minutes or until the squash and apple are very tender. Take off the heat and cool slightly for about 20 minutes. At this point, the recipe can be held in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Before using, thaw the box of Phyllo at least 12 hours in the refrigerator, or 4 hours at room temperature before using. Have a stick of butter melted and a pastry brush at the ready. Add the shredded Asiago cheese to the filling mixture. 

ROLLING AND BAKING: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. When ready to make the triangles, unroll the phyllo from one packet (usually 2 packets in a box), covering the sheets completely with a damp towel to prevent undue drying. If the phyllo becomes too dry it will split and break and folding will be impossible. Set the phyllo sheets to one side, then remove two sheets to an open work surface, short end facing you, and quickly brush with melted butter. Slice along the length of the sheets, making approximately 2-inch wide strips. See above for further instructions on rolling the triangles. Once rolled and brushed with more melted butter, the triangles, set on baking sheets, may be well covered and frozen for up to 2 weeks, then removed from the freezer and baked straightaway, or they may be baked immediately after rolling. Bake the triangles for about 20 minutes, or until golden. Serve hot, or at room temperature.


My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Facebook, and Pinterest.

Tis the Season for Pumpkin

'Tis the season for Pumpkin in all its forms. My favorite of the squash varieties, when it comes to baking, are either butternut squash or one of those big blue-green colored ones, whether called Jarradale, Jamboree or whichever name they come by. They have such lovely smooth flesh, making them ideal for things like pumpkin pie, pumpkin tarts, pumpkin loaves, pumpkin cheesecake, pumpkin cookies and anything else baked with pumpkin. Another reason I love these two types of squash best for baking is that they are less watery. 

Some Squash Varieties

Most every "pumpkin" (those orange ones, be they round, flat or other) I have ever tried is stringy and/or watery, even the sugar pumpkins. I bake my squash, to avoid having any water added to the equation, but even so, the pumpkin varieties give off so much liquid that by the time you've set the cooked flesh into a colander to drain for use in a recipe, there is not much left to use. 

I try to accomplish a nice, thick puree, similar to a can of "pumpkin." Ultimately, I use either the blue Jarradale type or everyday butternut for this purpose. Just my preference. If you have great luck with another variety, then do use whatever works for you. 

And then, there are always cans of "pumpkin," in case you run out during the year!
 

Soft Pumpkin Cookies

I started off using some of my stash of already baked and pureed Jarradale squash in the freezer. I do this with the big blue varieties in the fall and portion it into freezer zip-top bags in 2-cup portions, suitable for a pie. If I need less than 2 cups for a recipe, then I use the rest added into soup, which gives a nice body (not to mention great flavor) to any thin soup. This time, I decided to make Soft Pumpkin Cookies.

Lard vs Shortening vs Butter

I want to clarify on my reasons for using lard in this recipe. Firstly, I do not like using shortening, which is an unnatural product, and worse for one by far than lard or butter, which are from natural sources. (My own opinion.) I have made these cookies various times using one of all three fats. Butter tastes great, but leaves a flat cookie, just too soft. Shortening works better, keeping shape a bit more and holding their domed shape a bit better. Lard makes these cookies tender and delicate yet still retaining their pretty dome shape on baking. Ergo; lard it is, for me. Just know if you switch the fat the results will be far different. 

These cookies are, as the name states, "soft." They have a most wonderful flavor, and are as delicate as can be. They have a nice glaze icing using browned butter, making these truly irresistible. Next I want to attempt a Pumpkin Sandwich Cookie. I have the cookie part down, but was unhappy with the filling, which was too soft. Back to the drawing board with the icing part, but for now, here are my Soft Pumpkin Cookies:

Soft Pumpkin Cookies

Made 5½ dozen (2-teaspoon) drop cookies

Soft Pumpkin Cookies

COOKIES:
½ cup light brown sugar
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup lard (or shortening)
1 cup pureed pumpkin/squash, or canned pumpkin
zest of one orange
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups whole grain, ground Kamut Khorasan flour (or half whole wheat and half all-purpose flour)
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
½ cup ground nuts (walnuts preferred)

ICING:
6 tablespoons unsalted butter (no butter substitutes!)
3 cups confectioners' sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 to 3 tablespoons milk, as needed

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Have ready one or two ungreased baking sheets.

COOKIES: Combine in a mixer bowl the sugars and lard, beating until smooth. Add in the pureed pumpkin, orange zest and vanilla extract and beat to combine. In a separate bowl whisk together the flours, baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon and cloves. Add the dry ingredients in, beating very slowly until moistened, then beat briskly just to combine thoroughly. Add the nuts and stir to distribute.

Drop the cookies onto the baking sheet(s) using a two-teaspoon measure or cookie scoop, keeping them at least 2 inches apart. Try not to make them any larger, as they come out soft already. Bake the cookies for about 9 to 11 minutes, or until just set. Remove the cookies at once to racks to cool completely.

ICING: Heat the butter in a preferably light-colored skillet, so you can keep track of the browning process. Allow the butter to brown nicely, but not burn. Using a non-butter imitation will only burn. Pour the browned butter into the confectioners' sugar in a bowl and stir to combine. Add in the vanilla and a pinch of salt, if desired. Add milk one tablespoon at a time, only if needed to make an icing that the cookies can be dipped into, leaving with a nice coating. If too stiff, add a little more milk. Dip the tops of the cookies in the icing, then turn upright and let the icing set.



My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Facebook, and Pinterest.

Lots and Lots of Pork

If you like pork, in all its glorious forms, then this savory Four Pork Pie is going to be just what you want to try.

Four Pork Pie in Hot Water Pastry Crust

Yes, it does take a bit of time to prepare and assemble, and quite a long while in the oven, but this is a spectacular event of a dinner. Or, it is just as good cold, or lukewarm, can easily be taken with, whether on a picnic (though no picnics for a long while in our climes), or sliced for a lunch to go with you, or whatever takes your fancy. It is large, so there will be leftovers, unless you have a large family or a few guests.

This one is made in the same manner as my Beef and Pork Pie in Hot Water Pastry, though not packed into layers inside. It will hold together enough to slice when just made, but if you really want to see a lovely slice, wait to cut it chilled, the next day.

Four Pork Pie in Hot Water Pastry Crust, Day 1 (just baked) and Day 2 (after cooling)

Cutting into the pie, still warm from the oven, made slices that were unable to stand upright. The fillings hold together well enough to place a slice on a plate, but not until the pie has chilled can it actually show the fillings in all their beauty, and stand upright with pride. The flavors are fabulous, either way. It's only a matter of choice.

Have the Filling Pre-Prepared

When making this pie, or any of these types of pie with a Hot Water Pastry Crust, the fillings must be all ready, before starting the pastry. This is because Hot Water Pastry is best worked while it is hot, and if you line your pan with the bottom pastry and do not have the filling ready to go in, then working with the top crust afterwards becomes far more difficult. Hot Water Pastry does not act at all like regular pie pastry crusts. It is quite warm and very soft, but with a slightly spongy feel. It does not lend itself to rolling out large and lifting to the pan as with a regular crust. It is (to me) much simpler to work the pastry up the pan once it is inside the pan. As the pastry cools, it becomes more difficult to work with, tending to tear more easily and stick together less well. Trust me; have your fillings already assembled.

Hot Water Crust Pastry, a la Paul Hollywood

The recipe for the Hot Water Pastry Crust, taken straight from watching The Great British Baking Show, consists of placing 150g lard and 200ml water into a saucepan and heating just to a simmer, when the lard will have melted. Granted, you do need a scale for this, though many measuring cups have milliliters marked on them. In a bowl, combine 450 grams (1 pound) of all-purpose flour and 100 grams of bread flour and rub in or cut in 75 grams of butter (⅓ cup). Once the lard and water are hot and melted, pour this into the flour mixture and mix with a spoon (it will be very hot at first) until most of the flour has been mixed in, then use hands (being careful not to get burned) to bring it all together in a somewhat spongy feeling ball. Use the pastry immediately.

A Part of the Filling You May Not Have on Hand

Hot Pepper Mustard Relish

I happened to have some of my Hot Pepper Mustard Relish on hand. I just love this stuff. It's so delicious, it could be eaten as a dip, though it is fantastic on sandwiches and so much more. Since it is so delicious, and a little sweet and a little savory, I felt it would be a match made in heaven for pork. I used a fair amount of it, slathering it over layers of the filling as it went into the crust. I used about ¾ cup of the relish, ¼-cup at a time over three layers. If you do not have this relish on hand, you can just skip it. OR, possibly a substitute could be a mix of honey mustard with sweet pickle relish. To my mind, these flavors would also work. Just as an FYI.

Four Pork Pie in Hot Water Pastry Crust

Fills one 9-inch Spring-form Pan 

Four Pork Pie in Hot Water Pastry

Hot Water Crust Pastry (above)
8-ounces leftover pork roast, rough-chopped
8-ounces diced ham
20-ounces bulk pork sausage, fried
5-ounces bacon, cut in ¼-inch bits, fried
1 large onion, chopped, fried golden
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium sweet potato, peeled, cooked, chopped
1 chunk butternut squash (same weight as the sweet potato), cooked, chopped
3 tablespoons minced fresh sage
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary leaves
2 large kale leaves, stems discarded, in chiffonade
3 pickled walnuts, chopped, optional
-----
¾ cup Hot Pepper Mustard Relish, optional
1 egg plus 1 tablespoon water, whisked together for egg wash

Have ready a 9-inch spring-form pan.

Prepare all the meats, saute the onion and when nearly golden add the garlic for a few minutes more. Have the squash and sweet potato cooked in salted water and chopped coarsely. Place all these ingredients into a large mixing bowl. Add in the sage, rosemary and kale, along with the pickled walnuts, if available. Toss the mixture together to evenly distribute all the ingredients. Set aside.

Prepare the Hot Water Pastry as above noted. Use ⅔ of the pastry to press into and up the sides of the spring-form pan, ensuring there is an overhang. Work as quickly as possible, as it is easiest while warm, but make sure to patch any holes that may form. Press a third of the filling into the pastry lined pan, making sure it gets into the corners and edges. Spread about ¼-cup of the Hot Pepper Mustard Relish over this layer. Or use the suggested mix of Honey Mustard and sweet pickle relish or omit this step. Add another third of the filling mixture, pressing down evenly over the first layer, and well into the sides. Spread another ¼-cup of the Hot Pepper Mustard Relish over this layer (or one of the options). Press in the remaining filling evenly and spread with the last ¼-cup of the Hot Pepper Mustard Relish, or one of the options. 

Roll out the remaining ⅓ of the Pastry, large enough to hang over the edges of the pan. Brush just the top rim edge of the bottom crust with egg wash, then set the rolled pastry atop the pie, pressing the rim to seal the edges together. Trim away the overhang dough and set it aside to make decorative leaves or other forms  for the pie. Crimp the edges of the crust all around the pan, then make sure the crimped edges are all inside the pan, as later after partway through baking, the spring-form rim will be removed. If the crimped edge covers the top rim of the pan, the sides of the pan will not be easy to remove.

Cut a ½-inch hole in the center of the top crust. Roll out and cut decorative pieces for the top of the pie. Set them in place, then set the pan on a rimmed baking sheet into a preheated 350 degree oven. Bake the pie for about 70 to 75 minutes, and nicely golden. Remove from oven and increase oven temperature to 375 degrees. At this point, the pie should be strong enough to remove the spring-form rim. Unlatch and carefully remove the rim and set aside. Brush all over the top and sides of the pastry thoroughly with the egg wash. Place back into the oven for 10 minutes, then remove once more to apply a second coat of egg wash, then return to oven for 10 more minutes.

Allow the pie to cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing, or if time permits, cool completely. Refrigerate if you prefer to serve it chilled the following day.



My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Facebook, and Pinterest.

A Sonoran Style of Beef Stew

The Sonoran desert region, encompassing the state of Sonora in Mexico, Baja California, much of southern Arizona and some of lower California, is a sizeable area, and with a lot of the Southwestern flavors to the foods involved. When thinking of southwestern food, it is not all the Tex-Mex stuff that has gotten so common (Hot dogs??? Really???). There are foods and flavors that come of long standing in those desert regions. 

Sonoran Style Beef Stew

Pumpkins and squash, beans of many types, peppers of all description, corn, tomatoes, tomatillos sweet potato, nopal cactus; these are commonly known in Sonora, Mexico, and have been used to comprise much of the traditional cuisine. Spices and herbs are also quite specific, things like Mexican oregano, thyme, cilantro, epazote, annatto seed, chili powders, cloves, coriander, cumin, and "Mexican cinnamon" (or true cinnamon), cacao, vanilla and other more exotic spices. 

My Pueblo Pumpkin Stew

Some years ago, my sister sent me a recipe from Eating Well (no longer available on their site) called Pueblo Pumpkin Stew. The flavors are just absolutely amazing, and I have made that stew many times. It is really pretty as a picture and hearty, despite being meatless. Today, thinking about what to make for dinner, I just went to look at what I had in the freezer for meat, and came up with stew meat. My husband loves stew and so do I. I got the meat out thinking to use it in one of my common stews, but on the way up the stairs, the recipe for Pueblo Pumpkin Stew popped into my head, and my mind took off, thinking of how to incorporate those flavors into a beef stew. 

First off, I felt that pumpkin or squash (in this case I used both) should be in the stew. Beans of some kind, tomatoes. Peppers. I used both the mild chopped green chilies along with a bell pepper instead of the Anaheim chilies called for in the Pueblo Pumpkin Stew. I wanted corn to be represented also, but not sweet corn. Instead I used a couple of tablespoons of Maseca, the dry mix that is used to make corn tamales, mixed into some water and added in. What an amazing boost to the flavor!  

As for spices, I wanted to run with a mixture that was truer to the Mexican desert than using Garam Masala as was called for in the Pueblo Pumpkin Stew. Granted, most of the spices in Garam Masala are also common to those used in Sonora, but not necessarily all, and there are some not at all common in the Indian spice panoply, such as annatto or cocoa. I decided to concoct a spice mixture that would encompass those flavors I was looking for in a spice mixture and came up with this:

Sonoran Spice Mix

Annatto Seeds

Makes almost ½ cup

2 tablespoons ground cumin seed
2 tablespoons ground coriander seed
2 teaspoons grated nutmeg
2 teaspoons ground Mexican cinnamon
2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder
2 teaspoons ground annatto powder
2 teaspoons ground ancho powder

Stir together well and store in a glass jar in a cool dark place. Use 1 to 3 teaspoons as needed for flavor.

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I thawed my stew meat and got started making the stew, which simmered at very low heat (220 degree oven) for a few hours. I may not have needed that many hours, but I had a doctor appointment and needed something I could leave in the oven without worry. There is not a lot of hot spiciness to this dish. Should that type of heat define "Mexican cooking" then by all means add in hot chilies to your heart's content. This is the recipe for what I created:

Sonoran Style Beef Stew

Sonoran Style Beef Stew

Serves about 6

1 large or 2 medium onions
1 tablespoon olive oil for frying, more if needed
4 to 6 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound beef stew meat, in 1-inch cubes
2 cups pureed cooked pumpkin or squash (or use ½ to 1 can pumpkin puree)
1 (14.5 ounce) can petite diced tomatoes
3 small (4.5 ounce) cans chopped green chilies
1½ cups fresh peeled squash (butternut, buttercup, kabocha) in ½-inch dice
1 green bell pepper in 1-inch squares, about 1½ cup
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons Sonoran Spice Mix) see above
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons Maseca, dissolved into 1 cup water
1 (15-ounce) can white beans, well drained and rinsed

Have ready a large, oven safe, heavy stew pot with lid. Preheat oven to 220 degrees, or adjust to whatever will keep a very low simmer.

Heat a large skillet and add in the oil. Halve the onions, then slice across about ¼-inch thick, then cut across the half-rounds once. Sauté the onions in the hot skillet, tossing occasionally, until they start to brown. Add the garlic and sauté a few minutes more.

While the onions are sautéing, add to the stew pot the pureed pumpkin/squash, the fresh squash chunks, tomatoes, chopped green chilies, bell pepper, thyme leaves, Sonoran Spice Mix and salt. When the onions and garlic are done, add them to the pot. 

Add half the meat to the hot skillet and brown on all sides quickly, then add to the pot, and repeat with the remaining meat. Stir together, cover with a tight fitting lid and place in the oven for 2 hours, checking for liquid levels. Add water only if needed.

Remove the pot from the oven and set the lid aside. Stir in the Maseca and water mixture and the drained and rinsed beans. Stir well, cover and bake for another hour at least. 

As with most stews, this is great served immediately, but will also benefit from reheating.




My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Facebook, and Pinterest.

Falafel for Breakfast, Mealtime or Appetizer

My First Falafel

Not too long ago (July, to be exact), I made Falafel for the first time. I made them again, very shortly after, because my husband and I just truly loved them that much. Then shortly after that, there was a recipe in my September Food and Wine Magazine that was called Baked Kabocha Falafel. While this recipe didn't even have real chickpeas in it, but only chickpea flour, I really didn't want to go there, but the idea of adding squash to the falafel mixture intrigued me. 

To be clear, I have been pan-frying the falafel, made into small patties. I intensely dislike deep frying anything and avoid it at all cost. Not because of the frying, but just because of all that oil, and what to do with it afterwards, since it isn't likely to be used again in the next 5 years or so... My original intent was to bake the falafel, but ended up just pan-frying them all, and they taste so good, I haven't wanted to mess with the status quo. So pan-frying it continues to be.

I sat down with the original recipe I had created and thought about just how much squash should be added, or how much chickpea mixture to remove, in order to make the recipe taste good. I came up with amounts I felt would work and got to it. I still wanted to soak the chickpeas for 24 hours prior to making the mixture, so those went to soak. Meanwhile, I didn't have Kabocha squash but did have a Butternut Squash waiting to be used. I baked the butternut squash, in order to introduce the least additional liquid to the falafel recipe, and then once baked, I measured out 12 ounces of squash. To make the mixture, I did exactly the same thing as I had done previously: everything into the food processor and processing until well broken down, scraping the bowl often, to evenly distribute the ingredients. 

Butternut Squash Falafel

Lo and behold, I liked this mixture even better than the original one! 

One, it was easier to work with and form into patties. And two, I think it tasted just a tiny bit better. I grant you, the taste was not hugely different, but the ease of forming the patties really made these worthwhile. It seemed the pureed squash almost acted as a binder of sorts. I used no flour, no chickpea flour and no other binding agent. And these come out so great! 

So, now I have a Wine Tasting that I have to create foods for coming up on December 20th. Yikes! Nearly Christmas! And in thinking about what to make for this wine tasting, I had already come up with the Smoky Andouille & Corn Pouches, which pair excellently with a Malbec. And then I came up with the Mock Wellington Bites, which will pair well with a Cabernet Sauvignon, or other strong Red. Aside from those two, I am making two appetizers I have made before, and which are so flavorful: Hoisin Pork with Blackberry Chutney which pair with Pinot Noir and Spanakopita Cups that pair excellently with the austere features of a good Sauvignon Blanc or other white wine with that tartness level.

Butternut Squash Falafel as Appetizers

I decided to make these Squash Falafel, along with some mini Pita Breads, using a little Hummus and Turnip Pickle to decorate them. As it happened, the mini pita breads (I made 40 little breads rather than the 8 a recipe called for) worked perfectly. Cutting each one in half, each half held one little falafel patty perfectly. They are so darned cute and so amazingly tasty. I tasted them with a Chardonnay, which was perfect, but would love to try them with either an Albariño or Torrontes, or even a Pinto Gris to see how those might pair. But for now, I know that they pair with Chardonnay, and that's a great start.

These do not need to be used as an appetizer portion, not by any means. Since I do need appetizer portions for the Wine Tasting, mini pitas were a great holder, but if you aren't up to making all these little pita breads, consider cutting large, soft flatbreads into small squares (or even rounds) and spreading with a little hummus or tahini and yogurt spread and setting one little falafel on top, then garnish with something like these Turnip Pickles or with olives or other condiment.

As I write this and thought about it, I realize I never have placed my hummus recipe in this blog, so I will rectify that oversight here, also.

Butternut Squash Falafel

Butternut Squash Falafel as Appetizers

Makes about 38 (1½-inch diameter) falafel patties

1 cup (6.55 oz / 186 g) dried chickpeas
12 ounces baked butternut squash
½ medium onion, in chunks
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves
¼ cup fresh parsley leaves
¼ cup fresh mint leaves
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander seed
2 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Place the dry chickpeas into a large bowl and cover with water to rise above the chickpeas by at least 3 inches. Cover with plastic wrap or a lid of some kind and soak for 24 hours. Bake the squash in a 400 degree oven for about 50 minutes, or until tender all the way through when pierced with a knife. Allow to cool, then remove skin, scoop out seeds and weigh out 12 ounces of the squash. Use any remainder for another purpose.

Drain the chickpeas, discarding the water. Place the chickpeas into a food processor along with all the remaining ingredients. If your food processor is small, divide the ingredients into two or even three batches. Process each batch until the chickpeas are like coarse meal. There should be no large lumps of chickpea left. Stop and scrape down the sides of the bowl often. 

Place the mixture, covered, in the refrigerator for at least an hour, or overnight. Use a small scoop of about a tablespoon of the mixture and form a small, round patty about ⅜ to ¼-inch thick and about 1½-inches in diameter. Have a skillet heated to medium or medium low. Use oil as needed (I used olive oil) to keep the patties from sticking to the pan and fry them on each side until they hold their shape and are deeply golden browned on both sides. Fry them in batches, as needed, removing to paper toweling to drain.

Hummus

Hummus

Makes about 2 cups 

1 (15-ounce) can garbanzo beans/chickpeas
2 cloves garlic
3 tablespoons Tahini (sesame paste)
3 - 4 tablespoons lemon or lime juice, to taste
⅓ to ½ cup good quality olive oil
salt and pepper, to taste

Drain the chickpeas and run them under water for at least a couple of minutes. Drain well and place in food processor along with the garlic (mince first or it could end up in large chunks), tahini and about 2 tablespoons of the lemon/lime juice. Process until smooth, stopping to scrape down sides as needed. Gradually drizzle in the olive oil, until incorporated. Taste for salt and pepper, and add salt and more lemon juice if needed, to taste.

NOTES: To make this into red pepper hummus, drain a tiny jar of roasted red bell pepper with the initial ingredients. Substitute the red bell pepper for a few artichoke hearts, if desired, or with spinach.


My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Facebook, and Pinterest.

Pumpkins, Squash and Pumpkin Butter

Pumpkin, Squash or Gourd

Fall is all about pumpkins, squashes, gourds and beautiful Fall colors. Hallowe'en comes around and some of these pumpkins and other colorful specimens are made into pretty displays, hideous, grimacing faces or anything else one can think of as ornamental for the season. These displays hang around for a time, and then comes Thanksgiving to make use of some of the wonderful, edible Cucurbita. There are so many varieties of pumpkin and squash available nowadays. The colors, shapes and sizes are astounding. Just seeing all the varieties available in our little, local Farmers' Market took my breath away this year. Mainly, I am speaking of the varieties with hard shells, commonly known as Winter Squash. 

Squash at the Farmers' Market

Squash or Pumpkin?

Apparently the term of "squash" or "pumpkin" is somewhat subjective. Here in the US, the big, round orange ball shaped ones we think of as of Jack-o-Lanterns and pumpkin pie are most often called "pumpkins", while everything else seems to get lumped under the term "squash". Not necessarily so. Even what we normally call a pumpkin can be one of two different varieties: C. pepo or C. moschata. Many other types than these large round orange balls also fall into these categories. C. pepo also covers most of the summer squash varieties, with edible, soft skins. C. moschata also covers the very common butternut squash, which looks nothing like what we call a pumpkin. 

Apparently, according to Wikipedia and other sites around the 'net, Libby's canned Pumpkin is made from the variety C. moschata, called "Dickinson's Pumpkin". The Dickinson's Pumpkin is a variety with tan skin and vaguely roundish. It does not really seem like what we think of as a "pumpkin". But, as I have been finding, those big orange balls we call pumpkins are most certainly not what will make your best "pumpkin" pie!

What is Best for Pie?

Guicoy 

When I lived in Guatemala, they knew nothing about those big orange squash we call pumpkins in the US. The only winter squash variety that was available was called a Guicoy (we-COY). This green squash with orange-greenish interior flesh, a C. pepo variety, was what I used when I made a "pumpkin" pie. This same Guicoy squash, when small, is used as a summer squash, then called "guicoyitos" meaning "small guicoys". It was all that was available, and it was acceptable. The skin was so very hard I could rarely cut through it with a knife, most often resorting to throwing it repeatedly onto the hard, terazzo floors in order to crack it. I would cook the pieces and puree the meat with my trusty food mill. 

Since living in the US again, I have tried many kinds of squash to make pie. Have I noted how very much I love pumpkin pie? Well, I just love pumpkin pie. Come Fall, that is where my mind goes, and I can't wait to get to Thanksgiving and make pies. Not that it is critical to wait for Thanksgiving, mind you. But that mystique is there at that time, making it more special. 

Jarrahdale Squash

What I have found, trying out different (orange-colored) "pumpkin" varieties (such as a leftover Jack-o-Lantern type pumpkins, "sugar" pumpkins and Rouge Vif d'Etampes, also called "Cinderella" pumpkins, is that I haven't been impressed. Many are mealy, even when using the really small ones. A few years ago I bought a beautiful, blue Jarrahdale squash. I had never seen such a lovely blue color on a squash before and was curious. I baked the squash whole (after first using it in my Fall displays), so I had no idea what to expect from the insides. When I cut open the baked squash, it had the brightest orange-yellow flesh, ever. The flesh was also some of the smoothest, densest and silkiest in texture. I used this squash to make my pumpkin pies that year and was most gratified. My pies not only tasted heavenly, but that silky texture followed through, giving me a most decadent mouth-feel also. On top of all that, this squash yielded a lot of pureed squash to use. I froze it in 2-cup portions in Freezer bags. 

My Favorites

Galeux D'Eysines, French Heirloom

This year, once again I got a blue Jarrahdale squash, but was also intrigued with an unusual variety, an heirloom from France called Brode Galeux D'Eysines (meaning "embroidered with warts", from Eysines). Both of these varieties are C. maxima. I got one of the Galeux D'Eysines and used it for almost 2 months in a display. I baked it and the Jarrahdale just before Thanksgiving. While the texture of the Galeux D'Eysines was oh, so silky-smooth, it was a very wet kind of pumpkin. Liquid was all over the place after baking, and I scooped out the flesh into a colander. While almost the same size (but not weight; it weighed far less) as the Jarrahdale, the flesh was far thinner and released so much liquid that all I got as a yield from that whole squash was three cups of puree! In comparison, the Jarrahdale, after allowingthe baked flesh to set overnight in a colander, yielded 12 cups of puree. Quite the difference!

I will say that the Galeux D'Eysines squash was the deepest, most gorgeous orange color; much deeper in color than the bright, orange-yellow Jarrahdale flesh. There just wasn't much of it. I used 2 cups of the Galeux D'Eysines squash to make my pumpkin pie last week for Thanksgiving, and I will say, the experience is decadent! It is the same with the Jarrahdale, so I would certainly recommend the Jarrahdale or another similar one I used called Jamboree, also blue-skinned.

So now I had a whole lot of squash puree. Yes, I was going to freeze it. But this amount was going to last just about forever. I love pumpkin pie, as I said. However, I am not one of those people who goes bonkers over anything "pumpkin" flavored. Pumpkin cake, bread, cookies, butter, coffee - none of these really call me. I love squash just cooked with butter, I love squash in soup, in a casserole, and about any savory way to make it. But aside from pumpkin pie, none of the other sweet applications really call to me. Still, I thought, I might be in a minority here. Most of my family, but particularly my sister Barb just loves Pumpkin Butter. So I got thinking. Maybe I should give this a try?

Pumpkin Butter on my morning toast

I set aside 6 cups of the pureed Jarrahdale squash to make pumpkin butter. The name is a misnomer in that it has no butter in it. The silky smooth texture is all that the name "butter" implies. It came together easily. It can also be made with some of that canned pumpkin, if desired. I think anything made from scratch tastes better! 

One thing to keep in mind when making pumpkin butter: It cannot be safely "canned". Something about not being able to really know what the density of the finished product will be, but a boiling water canner or even a pressure canner supposedly will not make this safe. It can be kept in the fridge for a few weeks, or it can be frozen. Here is what i did:

pureed squash in crock pot, added sugar and syrup, spices and lime juice added, mix and set to cook

Pumpkin Butter

Makes about 6½ cups

My Pumpkin Butter

6 cups well-drained, pureed squash or pumpkin, OR 3 (15 ounce) cans pumpkin puree
1½ cups light brown sugar, firmly packed
¼ cup pure maple syrup
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lemon or lime juice

Place all the ingredients into a slow cooker, mix well. Cover and set to lowest temperature for one hour to bring up the heat. Not all slow cookers are equal, and many are certainly not too "slow". I read many warnings of splattering, hot lava-like eruptions. This never happened with my slow cooker. After the first hour, set the lid askew and continue to cook, stirring every 1 - 2 hours. My slow-cooker took 8 hours until I deemed the mixture to be done. This will depend on your preferences also. Once a dab set on a plate to cool has the desired consistency, it is done.

Place the mixture into small, sterile jars to keep in the fridge, or into freezer containers to freeze.

My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Facebook, and Pinterest.