Za'atar, Zah'tar, Zaatar, Zahtar or What

Now, here is a confusing topic for you! Zah'tar. Or any of the other spellings above or even others. 

Many years ago, I heard of the herb and spice blend called zah'tar and looked up recipes, chose what sounded "right," to my completely untrained eye and palate of the time. I set the recipe out here in my blog, and so it has remained.

With time, even in the intervening years since 2014 when I wrote that blog, so much more is now open to us on the internet. The world has opened up and so much information, even as confusing as it can be, is there for anyone to read. 

I love recipes. I love to find something new, then look up every version of that recipe I can find. I compare and see what one person considers important versus another. What flavor profiles are sought after. 

Most of all? When I discover a new spice or herb I haven't previously known, I seek it out. ASAP! As Indian food has been my main hobby for literally years and years, I have two large bins of spice jars and tins, store bought single spices and truly, the  home made blends / masalas I've made would take up at least another bin.

Now, I am looking into Middle Eastern cuisine. I got interested while watching videos by Mark Wiens. We really have enjoyed these videos. I decided to try some of the foods out, finding recipes that sounded like what I'd seen on the videos. I tried out a bunch of recipes and made a little feast for my family on my birthday. I found I liked a lot of what I made, very much. I decided to try some more. And, funny thing, when I am searching out recipes, I end up with questions. What actually is this ingredient? What is really in this spice blend? 

Zaatar, and Zah'tar

Zah'tar Blend

Now, to the point. today I decided to delve more deeply into what really constitutes Zah'tar, the blend of herbs and spices so widely used in the Middle east. Which then led me to examine this supposed "wild thyme" that is so crucial to a good zah'tar blend. This is what I found:

Zaatar is an herb that grows wild all across the Middle East. 

Zah’tar (or many other possible spellings) is an herb and spice blend used all over the Middle East. 

Zaatar is often referred to as “thyme or wild thyme.” Yet, the zaatar herb (Origanum syriacum), the biblical hyssop, is actually in the oregano family, variously described as tasting similar to thyme, or oregano or even marjoram. It grows wild all across the Middle East, along with Origanum vulgare (common oregano) and Origanum majorana (marjoram) and these three species are often confused due to their similar characteristics. Thus, it may be any of these oreganos that end up being a part of the Zah’tar blend.

Yet, the thyme plant (Thymus vulgaris), while common and native to the Middle East along with (and often confused with) Thymus capitatus, a native wild thyme, also often referred to as “hyssop,” (confused yet?) are what ends up somehow as the descriptor for the herb “zaatar” that is used in the spice blend, Zah’tar. What?????

So, as it turns out, people use whichever is available, whether the true zaatar herb, one of the wild oreganos or one of the wild thymes when making their Zah’tar.

What Comprises the Spice Blend, Zah'tar?

As per my usual style, I have looked through 8 different recipes, glossing over any that nearly dismissed the herbal component, or those that skimped on sumac. The variations are all over the place from 1/2 cup of zaatar herb and a teaspoon of sumac (which will be "green zah'tar"), to 4 tablespoons sumac and 3 tablespoons herbs.

Some swear that a "green zah'tar" is preferable as it is the zaatar herb that is the important part. Sesame seeds are a part of zah'tar no matter where you find the recipe, though again the amount ranges from 1/4 cup to 1 1/2 teaspoons. These measurements are from recipes that make approximately a half cup total. 

In short, the ingredients for zah'tar blend are zaatar herb (or equal parts dried oregano, marjoram and thyme to approximate zaatar flavor), toasted raw sesame seeds, ground sumac, salt.

Ground Sumac

As the herb zaatar is covered above, here is a little on sumac, as well:

The Mediterranean spice, Sumac is not from the same plant as poison sumac, though it is in the same family. The sumac used in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisines grows wild only in those areas, so no chance of running afoul of the wrong plant. The dried, crushed fruits yield a reddish brown powder with a tangy, lemony flavor and fruity sourness and astringency. Sumac is an important component of the spice mixture called Zah'tar. Sumac on its own can be sprinkled over most any food that needs a little zip. Sprinkle it over hummus, yogurt, avocado or cheese. In the Middle East it is liberally sprinkled onto many foods as they are ready to eat, and shakers or bowls of sumac are always available at table.

What if you cannot fine the zaatar herb? Substitute a combination of dried oregano leaves, dried marjoram leaves and dried thyme leaves, either in like amounts or as preferred. If one of the three is not available, try for at least two of them.

Sesame seeds need to be the raw kind, not the polished little shiny ones like you'd find on a hamburger bun. Raw sesame seeds are a pale tan in color and not at all shiny or polished. This kind will toast nicely, where the polished ones will want to burn.

There is no real substitute for sumac. It is a sour component that something like dried lemon rind would not mimic. But it is easy enough these days to get dried sumac on our favorite easy place online, or in Middle East markets, and even in some groceries. 

Zaatar herb is also available in some places, but be sure the label states Origanum syriacum. I just bought a pouch of the zah'tar blend online, being sure it mentioned the Origanum syriacum on the label, just to see what the real thing tastes like. 

In light of all I have learned, this will be my new Zah'tar recipe. I am using here an equal parts combination of the three flavoring herbs (thyme, oregano, marjoram) in lieu of the zaatar herb, as I still do not own any of that. Should you have access to the actual zaatar herb, Origanum syriacum, simply substitute all three tablespoons of that.

Zah'tar

Yields less than 1/2 cup

1 tablespoon raw sesame seeds

2 tablespoons ground sumac

1 tablespoon dried marjoram leaves

1 tablespoon  dried thyme leaves

1 tablespoon dried oregano leaves

1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt

Heat a dry skillet and once hot, add in the raw sesame seeds and stir with a wooden spoon to keep them moving around to toast evenly. They will begin to snap and bounce all over the place, so very important to have them in movement. After a short while they will begin to change color to a slightly deeper, warmer tan color. Remove them from heat and pour out to a bowl to cool. Do not leave them in the pan or they will continue to toast, and run the risk of burning. 

Once cooled, either do a quick whiz in a spice grinder to break some up or use a mortar and pestle. You want some of them broken up, but definitely not powdered. Set them aside. Add the sumac, and them add the dried herbs, rubbing them well between the palms of your hands before adding to the bowl. Stir in the salt and mix everything well to evenly distribute.

Taste for salt. Then store in a glass jar with a tight fitting lid in a cool, dark place, or in the refrigerator, if it will not be used up in a reasonable amount of time. 

My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Pinterest.

Essential Everyday Herbs

There are some herbs that we use without a second thought. They are generally available, even if only the dried kind. Fresh ones are more and more available to us on grocery produce aisles. Yet what is our actual knowledge about these herbs? Usually little, unless one is a botanist of some kind. Or more curious than most. ;-)

BAY LEAF

Bay Leaves Fresh and Dried

(Laurus nobilis)


The bay tree has been sacred since ancient times. Even its name suggests greatness. Nobilis means renowned, and in ancient times the bay branches were woven into wreaths of victory. The genus Laurus is derived from the Latin laus, meaning praise, and laurel wreaths are still made as beautiful craft projects to decorate our homes. Yet, this wonderful plant also has a prominent place in the kitchen, giving wonderful flavor to countless dishes.

The Bay Tree, also called Sweet Bay or Bay Laurel, is indigenous to the Mediterranean and Asia Minor, though it is now cultivated in many temperate climates. It does not tolerate strong winds and very cold temperatures, so container growing is an alternative. In the wild, the tree can grow to 60 feet, though outside its natural growing area, it may not grow to more than 10 to 15 feet. Container plants generally do not get more than about 5 feet tall, though this is more than adequate if growing for kitchen use. The leaves maybe used either fresh or dried for culinary purposes. For crafts, the branches may be woven into wreaths while still supple and green, and will maintain shape when dry. If not from plants sprayed with poisons, wreaths are great for use both as a decoration and as a handy place to grab a bay leaf when needed for cooking.

Bay leaves are key ingredients in many spice mixtures, such as the French bouquet garni. They make any vegetable soup shine (Say that 5x quickly!). The leaves themselves are very stiff, with a strong vein and stem, so they should be removed from a dish before serving, to prevent any choking hazard. 

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BASIL

(Ocimum basilicum) 

Sweet Basil is an erect, branched annual from the mint family, and being very sensitive to cold, it will die off at end of season, though if weather is warm all year, it can over-winter. Basil is native from central Africa to tropical Asia, where it grows wild at roadsides and in fields. This plant grows quite tall, from 2 up to 4 feet. The leaves are large, bright green, oval and sometimes can be purplish at the tips. The flower spikes have whorls of six blossoms that grow successively upwards. The flowers are white. The leaves can become quite large as well in optimum conditions. It grows a central taproot. It needs at least 6 to 8 hours of sun and well-drained but moist soil. Basil tends to be a promiscuous grower, cross breeding and popping up with all sorts of variations and combinations. Some of the more common varieties found are these:

• Purple Ruffles (Ocimum basilicum purpurescens ‘Purple Ruffles’) is a deep purple cultivar with large, ruffled leaves, and a slightly different flavor, leaning to cinnamon and licorice. It looks wonderful as a garnish, or as an addition to dishes where its deep color enhances.
• Green Ruffles (Ocimum basilicum ‘Green Ruffles’) is similar to the purple Ruffles above, except it is green in color, with very ruffled green leaves and can grow to about 2 feet tall.
• Purple Basil (Ocimum basilicum ‘Purpurascens’), like Sweet Basil, can grow quite tall. Interestingly, while the topmost leaves are a beautiful purple, sometimes with a tiny edge of green, the lower leaves are sometimes plain green. Also, like sweet basil, the flower spikes carry whorls of six blossoms and open successively from the lowest point. The flowers, not surprisingly, are purple.
• Purple Opal Basil, a Purple Basil hybrid, has leaves that are generally variegated between deep green, dark purple and sometimes with golden highlights.
• Thai Basil (O. basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is native to Southeast Asia and is widely used there. It has a slightly spicier, cinnamon and anise-like flavor. It has smaller less rounded leaves, with more pronounced veins and purplish stems and flower spikes and pale pink flowers.
• Globe Basil is a cultivar of Sweet Basil, growing in a small, tidy ball with densely packed and tiny leaves, making it easy for growing in small gardens and pots.

Purple Ruffles - Purple Opal and Thai Basil

Caprese Bites

Basil and tomatoes? There just is no better combination. It is marvelous in any dish with tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, zucchini, and makes an excellent ratatouille (Gloria Ivens' Dry Ratatouille or my Broiled - or grilled - Ratatouille). Pesto is most fantastic made with sweet basil, and in a sealed freezer safe container, can be frozen for later use when the basil supply is less abundant. Make quick appetizers by cutting cherry tomatoes in half, threading one half onto a toothpick or skewer, adding a small basil leaf, then a ball of pearl mozzarella and then the remaining tomato half, for little Caprese Bites. Serve with a balsamic reduction for a real flavor sensation!

Basil is very sensitive to cold, so refrigerating it will tend to blacken basil. If you cannot use it immediately, rinse well and set the leaves or stems of the basil onto paper toweling and roll it up. The moisture from rinsing will nicely dampen the paper towel, and when stored in a plastic bag, can last a few days without much harm.

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OREGANO

(Origanum vulgare)

Another plant in the mint family, Lamiaceae, oregano is native to temperate western and southwestern Eurasia and the Mediterranean. It is a perennial herb in mild climates, known for its flavorful leaves, assertive, peppery and who could think of pizza without oregano in the sauce? Many plants are called “oregano,” but with all the confusion surrounding this plant it is best to go with the nose and the taste. Oregano can be earthy, sharp and a bit resinous.  

Oregano plants are often untidy if they grow tall, and they can grow to 30 inches. They are easily grown in average dry to medium soil and do well in sandier soils under full sun. Sunlight encourages the development of the essential oils that give oregano its flavor. The plants easily go to flower and have lovely clusters of pink flowers, making them a pretty ornamental, while at the same time handy for culinary use.

• Wild Marjoram (Origanum majorana) is sometimes said to be the same thing as Origanum vulgare, but marjoram does lack some of the compounds that give oregano its particular flavor, so the flavor profile of marjoram can be quite distinct, possibly a bit more refined, a bit woodsier, with perfumed, floral notes.
• Mexican Oregano (Lippia graveolens), which is not in the mint family at all, should not be confused with Origanum vulgare. It is in the vervain family (Verbenaceae). The flavor profiles are quite distinct.
• Cuban Oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus) is also not to be confused with Origanum vulgare, but instead is a succulent plant with strong aroma and flavors of oregano, but the plant is distinct, with large, thick, fleshy leaves that present in a variety of sizes and shapes, but are all thick and fuzzy, with saw-toothed edges, and a lovely scent. This plant grows well as a potted plant or outdoors in a well-drained, sunny location.

Everyone can identify the scent and taste of oregano. It goes exceptionally well with strong flavors such as chili, garlic, onions, tomatoes, and red wine. In the Middle East it is mixed with sumac and other spices to make the spice mixture called Zahtar.

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ROSEMARY

(Rosmarinus officinalis)

First mention of rosemary is found on stone tablets as early as 5,000 BC. Rosemary is a conifer-like shrub with intensely resinous, aromatic, evergreen, needle-shaped leaves. The plant is reasonably tolerant of cool climates, though will not withstand a harsh winter. The plants can grow to over 5 feet in optimum conditions, with very upright growth. Native to the Mediterranean coasts and Asia, rosemary needs sun and well-drained soil. In some parts of the world, it is considered potentially invasive. Its flowers can fall within a range of white, pink, purple or blue.

Rosmarinus officinalis and flower

As rosemary plants are attractive and drought tolerant, they are wonderful used for xeriscape (not needing water) landscaping. The plants can be trimmed to a hedge or shaped into topiaries. 

Prostrate Rosemary in flower

A member of the mint family (Lamiaceae), this plant has woody stems. The upright plant has such stiff stems that they work excellently as skewers for barbecuing meats, flavoring the meat from the inside. As the stems should be green when used in grilling applications, they also will generally not burn through. Simply remove the leaves from the stems, then cut one end at a sharp angle so the point can be pushed through the meat. 

Another cultivar is Prostrate Rosemary (Creeping Rosemary, Trailing Rosemary), or Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’. As its name indicates, this is a low-growing, or creeping plant that can be used as a ground cover, or trailing down the sides of a pot, or a wall. It needs watering but will not tolerate sodden roots. Its trailing habit means the plants generally do not exceed 2 feet in height. The flowers are a lovely, clear blue. This plant flowered continuously for me, in Florida. While this form of rosemary can certainly be used in cooking, its smaller leaves and twisting stems make it less simple a task. The long straight stems of upright rosemary offer better ease of use. As rosemary is a very strongly flavored herb, it should be paired with Mediterranean flavors, hearty vegetable dishes, tomato dishes, grilled meats, lamb, beef. When looking for strong flavors to pair with a strongly flavored red wine, I made a cheese mixture with rosemary to fill flank steak rolls. As with thyme, gathering some fresh green stems and setting them under the grill’s grate, directly on the heat source, it will smoke nicely, lending flavor to the meats you are grilling. To use rosemary in a dish, the leaves must be removed from the stems, as the stems are much too woody to eat. 

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SAGE

(Salvia officinalis)

Salvia officinalis in Flower

Sage is a very well known garden herb that carries many health and healing claims attached. In ancient times it was thought to have powers of immortality, or at least longevity. The scientific name, salvia, means health, and the word sage has come to be synonymous with wisdom, though its origin is more likely the Latin salvare, meaning to cure, or be safe or well.

Sage is a hardy perennial with woody, squared stems, covered in down. There are many varieties of sage, and the plants grow from 1 to 3 feet in height. The long oval leaves are opposite, about 2 to 4 inches long. They look pebbly and puckered and are grayish green. The leaves are softly hairy or velvety and the edges are round toothed. They are at peak flavor just before the plant begins to flower. The flowers are tubular and pink, purple, blue or white and a little over a half inch long, growing in whorls of four to eight per stem.

Although these days sage is more known for its culinary use, it is also well known as an herbal medicinal. I claim no medical knowledge or recommendation in the following: Sage oil has antiseptic and astringent properties and is believed to be anhidrotic, or able to dry up body secretions such as perspiration. It is said that sage used as a mouthwash or gargle and is useful in treating sore throats and mouth irritations. Sage tea after a meal benefits digestion. It is known to help in the digestion of rich or fatty foods such as pork (and pairs excellently with it, also), such as in my Unstuffed Pork Chops' stuffing, or Four Pork Pie in Hot Water Crust.

Salvia officinalis

Sage flavor is of camphor and balsam and pleasantly bitter. It is a good partner for strongly flavored foods. Young leaves may be used scattered in salads or cooked in omelets, fritters, soups, yeast breads, sausages, meat pies and stuffing. They are wonderful cooked with meats such as liver, veal, pork, fish, lamb and poultry. Artichokes, tomatoes, asparagus, carrots, squash, corn, potatoes, eggplant, green beans, onions, Brussels sprouts cabbage, oranges, lemons, garlic, cheese and lentils benefit from the flavor of sage. Whole leaves may be dipped in a batter and fried.

Use sage when cooking pork chops. If fresh, chop the leaves and scatter over the pork while cooking. If dried, rub the leaves between the fingers to release the oils and scatter over the meat. Fresh leaves may grow quite large, and may be wrapped around small Cornish hens while cooking. The leaves are wonderful in a rolled pork roast. Whole sage leaves can be rolled into veal cutlets. The veal is pounded thin and dredged in flour, then a slice of prosciutto and a slice of mozzarella placed on top, then one sage leaf over that and the cutlets are rolled, skewered with toothpicks and fried in butter for 5 minutes. White wine is added, some salt and pepper, and the rolls left to cook for another 5 minutes or more until the meat is cooked through. 

Three Varieties of Sage

The four most common varieties of sage found readily in plant nurseries are: 

• Common Sage, Salvia officinalis, is the one found most commonly, with solid pale ashy green leaves. 
• Variegated sage, Salvia o. Icterina has green leaves with a yellow to white border. 
• Purple Sage, Salvia o. purpurea, has deeper purple veined and tinged leaves, and in some varieties of purple sage the underside of the leaf is a paler pinkish color. 
• Tri-Colored Sage, Salvia o. Tricolor, has variegated leaves in cream, purple and green. Any of these are fine for use in cooking and are purely a matter of taste and esthetics.

Sage is easy to grow, needing full sun and well draining soil. It will come up year after year in most climates, though after 4 or more years the plant may become too woody and need to be replaced. The plant itself is quite decorative and is a great addition to any garden purely for its looks. The flowers of common sage are a striking lovely blue. Even if grown as an ornamental, it is handy for use in the kitchen. Try growing sage to see just how rewarding it can be.

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THYME

(Thymus vulgaris)

Thymus vulgaris with near white flowers

An easy plant to grow, thyme is one of the most used plants, whether for flavoring food, enjoying the lovely plants with their tiny flowers, or steeping as with tea. An ancient herb that comes in too many varieties to count, find the ones that fit your needs and grow them so they are always available. In the kitchen, the rule of thumb is when in doubt, use thyme.

Native to the western Mediterranean, thyme is widely cultivated. The most commonly encountered variety, Thymus vulgaris, is now found fresh on most cold produce shelves. Thyme comes in many varieties wonderfully suited for use in the kitchen. As a perennial, it will survive most winters, coming back year after year to beautify the garden and grace the table. It loves full sun and well drained soil. Some varieties are wonderful for framing walkways, releasing their warm, spicy fragrance when brushed, or for planting between edges of a raised bed. Low growing varieties make a beautiful ground cover. Thyme flowers profusely all summer and different varieties flower from white to pale pink and deep rose. Multiple varieties planted together yield an exceptionally beautiful bed.

• Common thyme (Thymus vulgaris) will grow to be about a foot tall, with upright growth habit. It has stiff and mostly straight stems, and leaves are easily stripped to add to

  

  Lemon Thyme with pink flowers

  dishes being cooked. Whole sprigs can also be dropped into a pot, and removed later, as with a bouquet garni. The leaves of the thyme plant are tiny, with varying shapes or colors, depending on the variety. Thymus vulgaris has tiny, darker green and more leathery leaves.
• Lemon thyme (Thymus x. citriodorus) can have variegated green and golden yellow leaves, solid green leaves, or golden leaves with a lemony scent and flavor. These are well suited to chicken or fish dishes. 
• Nutmeg thyme (Thymus praecox articus), growing 2 - 4 inched in height, is variegated and has a scent of nutmeg, wonderful in cooking or baking.  It is great as a ground cover with a low growth habit and can withstand some foot traffic.
• Mother of Thyme (Thymus serphyllum) has a softer look and a more sprawling habit, growing only to about 4-inches high. The stems are far softer and the flowers are pink. 

Variegated Lemon Thyme

There are so many varieties; it is hard to name them all.

Thyme lends itself to most any savory dish. It is added to soups or stews. Thyme is an herb of choice in most Italian dishes, alongside basil and oregano. Indeed, I use it more than anything else, keeping it fresh at home, whether planted or store-bought. Try it in Leek and Mushroom Galette with Goat Cheese, One-Skillet Hamburger Meal, Chicken Brianna, or Greek Style Stuffed Chicken Breasts, to name a few.

It may also be used in some sweet applications, such as steeping a sprig of thyme in a simple syrup to be added to an iced tea. It can be added sparingly to a cake, dessert loaf or cookies. 

Mother of Thyme with deep pink flowers

When thyme is growing in abundance, fresh bunches may be tossed onto coals on the grill for the last 5 minutes or so of grilling chicken or other meats. The green plant will smoke, giving the wonderful fragrance and flavor to the grilled meat, and with chicken, this is exceptional. 

I claim no medical knowledge or recommendation in the following: As a medicinal, thyme leaves can be simmered gently for 2 to 3 minutes and strained. The liquid may be consumed as a digestive tonic. With added honey it is said to be excellent for coughs. Thyme, with its ingredient thymol has natural antiseptic qualities and has long been an ingredient in cleaning products, mouthwashes, antiseptic creams and massage oils. Find a sunny spot in the garden to plant and enjoy.  


My passion is teaching people how to create a harmony of flavors with their cooking, and passing along my love and joy of food, both simple or exotic, plain or fancy. I continue my journey in ethnic and domestic cuisines, continuing my journey to explore diverse culinary experiences and hopefully to start you on a journey of your own. Join me also at A Harmony of Flavors on Facebook, and Pinterest.